My squid ink obsession
plus pork buns and pet nat
What I’m cooking
Squid ink is currently dominating my life.
I’m obviously not cooking *just* squid ink. But I had the idea of making some kind of pasta or dumplings with squid ink and I really haven’t been able to let it go. Squid ink makes me think of summer. The thought process goes something like this: squid ink = seafood, seafood = shrimp, shrimp = summer vacation on Hilton Head Island. Catch my drift?
In the last week or two I’ve made shrimp scampi over squid ink pasta, squid ink ravioli with shrimp, pork & ‘nduja filling, squid ink dumplings with pork, chive and whole shrimp filling - there’s no shortage of ways I’ve tried to use squid ink. One might say I’ve *overused* squid ink.
For starters, I’m not actually using squid ink, I’m using cuttlefish ink. I’m really not sure why - it’s just what was more readily available on Amazon (this is the kind I got). A quick Google search let me know that actual squid ink is blacker/bluer. Cephalopods (octopi, squid, cuttlefish) release this ink as a defense mechanism which makes sense because dark ink = murky water = swim away and escape, poor little guy! Only to be captured by humans and have your ink/tentacles/body commodified by the seafood industry!! Wow, that got dark.
In its pure, raw form the ink definitely has a pronounced fishy flavor but when it’s cooked it really tastes like…well, nothing. It’s primarily an aesthetic choice and if anything, I find it impacts texture more than it impacts flavor. Gives the pasta/dough a little more bite/chew.
It’s been a fun inky adventure and I’ll be sharing some recipes soon!
Where I’m eating
I recently revisited Fu Zhou Wei Zhong Wei Jia Xiang Feng Wei, a Fujianese restaurant in the East Broadway Mall basement and home of some of the best steamed pork buns in the city (check out this video for an audiovisual accompaniment!).
The pork buns I’m referring to aren’t the bao buns you might be thinking of but rather Fujianese xiao long bao - soupless steamed buns similar to Sheng Jian Bao, their pan-fried cousins. I am *for sure* going to try my hand at making them one day.
I also ordered the pork & chive dumplings which are extra chive-y and fresh (just the way I like it) and the sesame bamboo shoot cake which is a fried sweet & savory pastry filled with bamboo shoots and pork. Everytime I’m here I witness the food being made to order - it’s incredibly fresh. The mall, which I read was once a bustling hub for Chinatown’s Fujianese community, is pretty desolate today. Many of the shops have closed down over the years, especially during the pandemic, but there are a few vendors left including this restaurant so pay them a visit and help support while eating delicious things!
Fu Zhou Wei Zhong Wei Jia Xiang Feng Wei: 88 E Broadway, New York, NY 10002
What I’m drinking
If there’s ever been a wine I’ve recommended that I’m almost certain you can find near you, it’s the Uivo Curtido 2021 Pet Nat. I’ve see it on *so many* restaurant menus and in *so many* natural wine shops. I was under the impression that I wasn’t obsessed with this pet nat but I recently snagged some from my local shop, Leisir, and realized - it’s freaking bomb. Maybe the 2021 bottle is better than previous vintages? Who knows, I certainly don’t remember. It’s bubbly and peachy and bright with two weeks of skin contact and I’d say this is a wine that anyone would like, whether you’re a funk-seeker or more of a traditionalist. We’re placing it somewhere in the middle on the funk scale!
If you’re curious about pet nat aka Pétillant-naturel - check out this article. TL;DR: it refers to wine made using an ancestral method where the wine is bottled before primary fermentation is finished resulting in a naturally effervescent wine that’s typically unfiltered.
It was 95 degrees today. That pet nat is calling me.
You definitely need your own show!! You are such an expert in Asian cuisine!! I’m impressed!!